Tips 'N Tidbits

Caring for Bakelite
Sunlight can cause the surface of bakelite items to become dull and lose some color.  However, other than that, the material is not harmed by normal home use.  Bakelite can be cleaned with a mild liquid-soap solution, applied with a soft cloth.  However, do not immerse or soak the item in water.  After washing, dry the item with a soft cloth.  If you want to revive the color, use a mildly abrasive car-paint cleaner.  Apply the cleaner with a soft pad, then was the bakelite again.  You can further protect the surface by putting a fine coating of microcrystalline wax over the item.

Caring for Bronzes
Old bronze that are kept indoors develops a highly-prized, rich brown patina, which should always be preserved.  Outside - exterior - bronzes develop a greenish-blue patina.  Neither indoor or outdoor bronzes should be overcleaned, as the cleaning will ruin their color.  Simply dust the surfaces of your interior or exterior bronzes regularly to prevent the build-up of dirt.  To remove dust from crevices, use a small, soft brush.  Never wash bronze unless you are sure it is not patinated spelter (see "spelter"), as you will damage the color.  If you know your piece is entirely bronze, it can be washed with a liquid soap solution (1 part soap to 10 parts warm water).  Apply the soap solution sparingly with cotton swabs.  After washing, dry the piece thoroughly.  If the surface of your bronze has become dull, it can be revived by applying a coat of microcrystalline wax with a soft cloth.  After the wax has been applied, use a clean soft cloth to buff the piece.  Keep indoor bronzes away from damp conditions to prevent them from corroding.

Caring for Pewter
Generally, old pewter has a dark grey patina that needs very little attention.  If it contains a high portion of lead, the color will be quite a bit darker.  Pewter must be handled carefully since it is a soft metal that can easily be scratched or dented.  You should not use coarse abrasives on old pewter because they will damage the patina.  To maintain the condition of pewter, remove the dust and buff the item occasionally with a soft cloth.  You can also wash soiled wares in warm water and liquid soap (1 part soap to 10 parts water).  After washing, rinse the piece completed and dry it with a soft cloth.  To store pewter, make sure you don't put it into an oak cupboard or other storage cupboards that might contain organic acids.  Also, do not store it in boxes that contain a high percentage of glue.  The best way to store pewter is to wrap each piece in acid-free tissue and place them in ventilated plastic bags.  Corrosion on old pewter may cause small lumps to appear.  If the condition is not stable, you should have the item treated by a specialist.

Casein
Casein is produced from the protein found in cow's milk.  Early in the 19th Century, it was discovered that casein, when treated with formaldehyde (a pungent gas), formed a moderately water-resistant, translucent, rigid and hard (thermosetting) plastic.  Casein was produced in a wide range of colors, and it was also used to imitate natural materials, such as tortoiseshell and horn.  Most items made from casin are not molded.  Rather they are made from solid sections of casein.  Most common uses of case was fountain pens, belt buckles, hand brushes and hand mirrors.  Some very decorative buttons were also made from casein.  Fine crazing on the surface of casein objects might develop.  This is because casein will absorb moisture and also dry out.  It is best to keep items made from this material out of the direct sunlight.  Clean with cotton swabs dipped in a mild, liquid soap solution.  Then blot the piece dry with an absorbent tissue. Test a small area of the piece to see if the colors are "fast."  You can seal these pieces with a fine film of microcrystalline wax.

Cellulose Nitrate - Celluloid
Cellulose Nitrate, developed in America as celluloid and in Britain as Xylonite, was the first synthetic plasic to be manufactured from natural polymers.  It was first developed in the mid-19th Century as collodion, which was used for coating photographic plates and also as a treatment for wounds.  This plastic was used to make many different types of domestic items, toys, and also early cinema film.  The plastic was made in a large variety of colors.  Initially celluloid was produced in America to imitate ivory and tortoiseshell, and when the material is warmed, you can detect a distinct smell of camphor, which was used as a plasticizer while being manufactured.  Celluloid is highly flammable and should not be exposed to direct flame.  Celluloid should not be kept in a humid environment as that will accelerate its deterioration.  Pieces made from celluloid should be placed in a dry and relatively cool area on open shelves or in a ventilated cabinet out of direct sunlight.  If you have a decaying piece of celluloid, you should remove it from your collection as it will infect the other pieces close to it.  Clean celluloid with a warm, mild liquid soap solution.  This solution can be applkied with a soft cloth or cotton swabs.  If the item has old wax or greasy deposits on it, you can remove those with paraffin.  After washing the item with the soap mixture, dry it with an absorbent paper tissue.  You should not apply a surface finish to the cleaned plastic.

Cleaning Amber
Amber can be cleaned easily with alcohol.  For very dirty items, it is best to immerse them in alcohol.  If the alcohol leaves a white deposit, rub the amber with a leather chamois.

Cleaning Gilded Bronze
To clean gilded bronze, use a soft brush and some hot soapy water.  This will enable you to get rid of encrusted deposits in bronze motifs.  You will know at once if any gilding remains as gold does not corrode and it will regain its brightness.  Rinse and dry.  Bring back to their original state of polish by rubbing with a leather chamois.

Cleaning Gilded Wood
Gilded wood can be cleaned with soapy water applied with a small brush to penetrate the details of the mouldings and carvings.  You can also use ordinary alcohol, such as methylated spirits, followed by poilshing with a leather chamois.

Cleaning Ink Stain From Wood Furniture
Unfortunately, cleaning an ink stain from wood furniture must be done almost as quickly as it happens for this method to be successful.  Wash the ink stain with water, then pour lemon juice onto the stain.  This should remove the stain.  As quickly as it dries, reapply furniture polish.

Cleaning Large Pieces of Jewelry
The best thing for cleaning large pieces of open-backed jewelry, such as a brooch, is conservator's liquid soap and warm water.  The solution should contain one part soap to ten parts water.  You will also want to add  few drops of ammonia.  Remove the dirt on the piece with an old toothbrush, then rinse the piece in clean warm water.  Dry the piece with a soft cotton cloth.

Cleaning Ormolu
When an ornate clock, candelabrum, or other piece made from ormolu (gilded cast brass or bronze) needs to be cleaned, it must be done with great care.  For light soiling, remove dust from the item, then clean and protect the surface with an application of microcrystalline wax.  For heavier soiling, try removing old wax buildup by using white spirit applied with cotton swabs.  Follow that application by using a arm solution of conservator's liquid soap (1 part soap to 10 parts water, to which a few drops of ammonia have been added.  Apply that solution with cotton swabs, then wipe with swabs that have been dampened with clean water.  Dry the item thoroughtly and buff with a soft cloth.  It is best to apply a protective coating of microcrystalline wax following the cleaning.  This will help keep the item in pristine condition.

Cleaning Silver Turned Black By Use
Silver that has turned black through use can be cleaned with lukewarm soapy water or with powder detergent added to very hot water.  After thoroughly rinsing, the brilliance can be restored by a vigorous polishing with a chamois cloth.

Cleaning Small or Intricately Detailed Jewelry
To clean small or intricately detailed jewelry, it is best to use a commercial dip.  Dips for cleaning gold, silver and gemstones is readily available from jewelers, and there are several retail stores that are now carrying jewelry cleaning dips as well.  When cleaning your jewelry, make certain that you use the right dip for the material being cleaned.  The dipping method makes cleaning small and intricately detailed jewelry much simpler.  A small brush can be used to clean the crevices or other areas that are not completely cleaned with the dipping.

Cleaning a White Ring From Wood
To clean a white ring, caused by moisture from the bottom of a glass, bottle, flower vase, or other article that was set directly on a piece of wood furniture, let the mark dry thoroughly.  When it is dry, rub the ring with turpentine--letting it soak in.  Apply fresh polish when the ring disappears.

Dusting Books
To keep books in excellent shape, they must be dusted regularly.  Dusting the books reduce the risk of dust particles getting in between the pages, which can ultimately destroy the paper.  Always check for mildew and harmful insects when you dust your books as well.  To dust a book, hold it tightly between your forefinger and thumb.  Use a soft-bristle paintbrush to dust the "head," brushing from the spine out.

Electrochemical Dip for Cleaning Tarnished Metal
Chemical dips soften and/or remove tarnish from silver, copper and brass by an electrochemical process.  To make your own dip for cleaning large metal objects, line a plastic tub or bucket with aluminum foil.  It is best to tie a small piece of string to the object, as you will use that string to lift the piece out of the dip to monitor its progress.  Place the object into the foil-lined plastic container.  Make up a solution of 1 cup of washing soda (sodium carbonate) and 3 1/2 pints of VERY HOT water.  You will need to make enough solution to totally cover your object.  Immediately after the solution is made, pour it carefully into the plastic container.  You will notice that a chemical reaction is taking place as the solution will begin to bubble as the tarnish is removed.  Lift the piece out frequently to monitor the progress, and when it is clean, remove it from the dip.  Wash and dry it immediately, then polish the piece.  If the tarnish is really heavy, you might have to repeat this process several times.  There are also commercial cleaning plates available that will produce the same electrolytic reaction.  However, cooking salt (rather than the sodium carbonate) is used in the hot water.  NOTE:  DO NOT USE A DIP FOR CLEANING ITEMS THAT ARE COMPOSED OF A MIXTURE OF MATERIALS, INCLUDING THOSE WITH WEIGHTED BASES, SUCH AS CANDLESTICKS.

Keeping the Patina on Bronze "Clean"
The patina of a bronze must be respected and never have the look of well-polished copper or brass.  However, it can be cleaned wth soapy water and a soft brush. After rinsing, it should be dried in dry air.  A hair dryer on low can be used.  Then it should be hot waxed with beeswax.  When completely cool, remove excess wax with a brush and rub lightly with a wool duster.

Niello Silverware
Niello is a type of silverware that is decorated with engraved designs.  These designs are then filled with a black compound.  Special care is necessary when cleaning niello as the piece will be damaged if the compound is removed.  Never us a dip to clean niello.  Lightly clean the surface of the piece with a long-term silver polish.  This enhances the decorative design, making it stand out more on the piece.

Polishing Silver
When polishing silver, choose a product that is chemically formulated to give long-term protection to the piece or pieces you are going to clean and polish.  This is because each time a piece of silver is polished, it loses some of its silver.  Thus, do not polish your silver any more often than is absolutely necessary.  Apply the polish according the directions on the bottle, using a soft cloth and working in a circular motion.  As the cloth becomes dirty, turn it to a clean area.  To clean decorative work on the silver piece, use a soft brush or cotton swabs.  After you have cleaned and polished each piece, wash the polished metal to remove all traces of the cleaner.  Dry the piece, then buff it once again with a clean, soft cloth.

Removing Blood Stains from Wood
Blood stains on wood can usually be removed by using hydrogen peroxide. Pour the hydrogen peroxide on the blood stain and let it set for a few minutes.  Wipe off with dry cloth.  This may take more than one application.  When the stain is gone, use polish on the wood where it was cleaned.

Removing Dust from Crystal Items
Removing dust from crystal items is best done by washing them with warm water directly under the tap, not by dipping them in warm water in a sink.

Removing Lacquer from Metal Objects
Worn or missing lacquer creates a patchy appearance on metal objects.  However, before the metal can be polished once again, the old lacquer must be removed.  If shellac has been used, remove it with cotton swabs that have been dipped in methylated spirit.  Use acetone to remove cellulose lacquers.  If those fail to remove the lacquer, use paint stripper.  When cleaning the lacquer from an item that is made from multiple metals, be sure you apply solvents to the appropriate surfaces only.  It is always best to clean a small area at a time.  After the lacquer is off, wash the surface with mild soapy water and dry it thoroughly.  Once dry, the piece is ready to polish once again.  Keep in mind that to keep from having to polish the piece on a regular basis - which tends to remove part of the silver, etc. with each polishing - you might want to reapply lacquer once the piece has been polished.

Shellac Objects
Shellac, sometimes spelled shellack,  is produced by refining lac.  Lac is a resinous substance that is secreted by various scale insects.  When melted, strained and rehardened (refined), it becomes shellac.  Shellac has most commonly been used as a finish for fine furniture.  However, shellac was also mixed with organic fillers - including wood flour and powdered minerals - and made into a moldable plastic.  The material was capable of being molded with fine detail.  Though it was used to make decorative boxes and picture frames, its most common use was to make old 78 rpm records.  When shellac records were replaced by vinyl, some of the old records were softened in hot water and used for making decorative bowls and/or pots.  Shellac plastic is very brittle and will distort if subjected to excessive heat.  Melted shellac smells like sealing wax.  To clean shellac plastics, remove the surface dust with a soft brush.  Then wipe the item with a soft cloth that has been dampened with a warm, mild liquid soap solution.

Vulcanite
Vulcanite, which is also known as ebonite, is a hard-rubber material that began to be produced commercially in the mid-19th Century.  Vulcanite, which was typically black, was molded into a variety of smaller objects, which included buttons, combs, jewelry and fountain pens.  Unknown to many, however, vulcanite was also produced in a pink color, which was used for making dentures.  Other colors that came into existance were brown and a striated mixture of black and red. Vulcanite is susceptible to light and heat.  These two elements cause the surface of vulcanite objects to oxidize, taking on a dull greenish-brown hue.  When vulcanite degrades, sulphuric acid is released. If you handle the item, you will notice that your hands have a sulphorous smell.  If the item becomes wet after it has oxidized, "water spot" marks will appear.  Items made from vulcanite should be handled as little as possible.  Always keep hard-rubber item in low light and in cool, dry places.  The surface can be cleaned with a cloth that has been dampened with a light mineral oil, then buffed with a clean soft cloth.  A thin covering of microcrystalline wax can also be applied.