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Tips 'N Tidbits
1800s & Early 1900s Bronze Clocks and Sculptures
In the latter 1800s and early 1900s, a lot of the "bronze" used for clocks, sculptural figurines and hanging lights contained substantial amounts--from 25 to 30 percent--of zinc. This made the metal less expensive to use, although items made with this metal were much more brittle than those made with "pure" bronze. However, antiques made from this metal mixture can usually be found in relatively good condition, despite the brittleness of the material.
Antique Bronze Mirrors
Most antique bronze mirrors contain between 30 and 40 percent tin. This makes them hard, brittle and white. This also enables them to be highly polished . . . making them very suitable for their purpose--to reflect the image of the person peering into the mirror!
Are My Candlesticks Antiques?
Although there are many factors relevant for authenticating candlesticks, one thing that is found in almost all antique candlesticks is the fact that they are usually made in two parts--the column (stem) and the base. More elegant candlesticks can actually have three and sometimes four separate pieces.
The various parts are held together by screw threads. The "lands" have no sharp edges and are usually rather stout. The grooves between are broad and flat bottomed.
Prior to the 18th century, the components of a "Dutch" candelabra were joined either by large threaded portions cut in the main body of the metal, or were pierced by a solid forged iron stem and held in placy by a key or cotter.
Bakelite
Bakelite, which was developed in 1909 in the United States and used to produce a wide range of products, was the first totally synthetic-resin plastic. Formed from phenol - a derivative of tar or benzene - and formaldehyde, it was combined with fillers to make a hard, stable, strong plastic with excellent electrical and heat-resistant properties. In the electric appliance field, it was often used for radio and television cabinets. Most were dark brown in color, although some had a "mottled" effect. Later there was a casting type of this resin produced that was either transluscent, or made in many different colors.
Beware of Pure Copper
Pure copper is poisonous, especially when it comes into contact with organic substances such as fat and oil. Its toxicity makes it essential for the inside of kitchen utensils to be tinned. If the tinned insides begin to wear through to the copper, utensils should not continue to be used for cooking foods.
Bone Glue
Bone glue, which is made from animal bones, was used by cabinetmakers throughout the 19th and much of the 20th century. It is still preferred by those who repair and restore antique furniture. The glue is made by grinding animals bones into powder, then dissolving the powder in water. As the water evaporates the mixture becomes a hard jelly-like substance. Woodworkers today, and especially those who are restoring or repairing antique furniture, prefer bone glue because
- The original bond can be completely dissolved by applying heat, even after many, many years.
- Repairs can be easily made and mistakes easily corrected by warming the piece--thus softening the bond and making it possible to separate the pieces. By using a little water on the glue areas, the pieces can be rejoined quite easily.
- Bone glue beads, in their solid form, have a virtually unlimited shelf life. Even prepared glue solutions that have been dried out for years can usually be brought back to a state of use by warming the solution and adding water.
- Bone glue dries hard and it does not form a "skin" like other glues.
- Because it is an organic product, it is more fitting for use with wood than synthetic glues.
- Bone glue is environmentally friendly and completely safe for those using it.
Bone Glue & Veneer
Most veneer on antique furniture was originally adhered with bone glue--especially if the furniture was made by cabinetmakers in the 19th or early 20th century. This was because of its strength, its long-lasting ability and its ease for "ungluing" the piece if necessary. If your veneer has come apart, the best glue for repairing it is still bone glue. Though not readily available, this glue can still be purchased is most readily available through the internet. Although it is no longer used for industrial production, bone glue is still one of the first choices of those experts who repair and/or restore antique furniture.
Bronze
Bronze is a substance compound (alloy) that is made by combining copper and tin. The ratios of the copper and tin vary greatly--depending on the intended use of the bronze. Most works of art, particularly statues, are made from a combination of 83 percent copper and 17 percent tin. This combination makes them harder and more durable.
Caring for Bakelite
Sunlight can cause the surface of bakelite items to become dull and lose some color. However, other than that, the material is not harmed by normal home use. Bakelite can be cleaned with a mild liquid-soap solution, applied with a soft cloth. However, do not immerse or soak the item in water. After washing, dry the item with a soft cloth. If you want to revive the color, use a mildly abrasive car-paint cleaner. Apply the cleaner with a soft pad, then was the bakelite again. You can further protect the surface by putting a fine coating of microcrystalline wax over the item.
Caring for Bronzes
Old bronze that are kept indoors develops a highly-prized, rich brown patina, which should always be preserved. Outside - exterior - bronzes develop a greenish-blue patina. Neither indoor or outdoor bronzes should be overcleaned, as the cleaning will ruin their color. Simply dust the surfaces of your interior or exterior bronzes regularly to prevent the build-up of dirt. To remove dust from crevices, use a small, soft brush. Never wash bronze unless you are sure it is not patinated spelter (see "spelter"), as you will damage the color. If you know your piece is entirely bronze, it can be washed with a liquid soap solution (1 part soap to 10 parts warm water). Apply the soap solution sparingly with cotton swabs. After washing, dry the piece thoroughly. If the surface of your bronze has become dull, it can be revived by applying a coat of microcrystalline wax with a soft cloth. After the wax has been applied, use a clean soft cloth to buff the piece. Keep indoor bronzes away from damp conditions to prevent them from corroding.
Caring for Pewter
Generally, old pewter has a dark grey patina that needs very little attention. If it contains a high portion of lead, the color will be quite a bit darker. Pewter must be handled carefully since it is a soft metal that can easily be scratched or dented. You should not use coarse abrasives on old pewter because they will damage the patina. To maintain the condition of pewter, remove the dust and buff the item occasionally with a soft cloth. You can also wash soiled wares in warm water and liquid soap (1 part soap to 10 parts water). After washing, rinse the piece completed and dry it with a soft cloth. To store pewter, make sure you don't put it into an oak cupboard or other storage cupboards that might contain organic acids. Also, do not store it in boxes that contain a high percentage of glue. The best way to store pewter is to wrap each piece in acid-free tissue and place them in ventilated plastic bags. Corrosion on old pewter may cause small lumps to appear. If the condition is not stable, you should have the item treated by a specialist.
Casein
Casein is produced from the protein found in cow's milk. Early in the 19th Century, it was discovered that casein, when treated with formaldehyde (a pungent gas), formed a moderately water-resistant, translucent, rigid and hard (thermosetting) plastic. Casein was produced in a wide range of colors, and it was also used to imitate natural materials, such as tortoiseshell and horn. Most items made from casin are not molded. Rather they are made from solid sections of casein. Most common uses of case was fountain pens, belt buckles, hand brushes and hand mirrors. Some very decorative buttons were also made from casein. Fine crazing on the surface of casein objects might develop. This is because casein will absorb moisture and also dry out. It is best to keep items made from this material out of the direct sunlight. Clean with cotton swabs dipped in a mild, liquid soap solution. Then blot the piece dry with an absorbent tissue. Test a small area of the piece to see if the colors are "fast." You can seal these pieces with a fine film of microcrystalline wax.
Cellulose Nitrate - Celluloid
Cellulose Nitrate, developed in America as celluloid and in Britain as Xylonite, was the first synthetic plasic to be manufactured from natural polymers. It was first developed in the mid-19th Century as collodion, which was used for coating photographic plates and also as a treatment for wounds. This plastic was used to make many different types of domestic items, toys, and also early cinema film. The plastic was made in a large variety of colors. Initially celluloid was produced in America to imitate ivory and tortoiseshell, and when the material is warmed, you can detect a distinct smell of camphor, which was used as a plasticizer while being manufactured. Celluloid is highly flammable and should not be exposed to direct flame. Celluloid should not be kept in a humid environment as that will accelerate its deterioration. Pieces made from celluloid should be placed in a dry and relatively cool area on open shelves or in a ventilated cabinet out of direct sunlight. If you have a decaying piece of celluloid, you should remove it from your collection as it will infect the other pieces close to it. Clean celluloid with a warm, mild liquid soap solution. This solution can be applkied with a soft cloth or cotton swabs. If the item has old wax or greasy deposits on it, you can remove those with paraffin. After washing the item with the soap mixture, dry it with an absorbent paper tissue. You should not apply a surface finish to the cleaned plastic.
Cleaning Amber
Amber can be cleaned easily with alcohol. For very dirty items, it is best to immerse them in alcohol. If the alcohol leaves a white deposit, rub the amber with a leather chamois.
Cleaning Gilded Bronze
To clean gilded bronze, use a soft brush and some hot soapy water. This will enable you to get rid of encrusted deposits in bronze motifs. You will know at once if any gilding remains as gold does not corrode and it will regain its brightness. Rinse and dry. Bring back to their original state of polish by rubbing with a leather chamois.
Cleaning Gilded Wood
Gilded wood can be cleaned with soapy water applied with a small brush to penetrate the details of the mouldings and carvings. You can also use ordinary alcohol, such as methylated spirits, followed by poilshing with a leather chamois.
Very dirty gilt can be cleaned by dipping a sponge in undiluted vinegar and rubbing the piece. When clean, wash the piece with water.
Cleaning Ink Stain From Wood Furniture
Unfortunately, cleaning an ink stain from wood furniture must be done almost as quickly as it happens for this method to be successful. Wash the ink stain with water, then pour lemon juice onto the stain. This should remove the stain. As quickly as it dries, reapply furniture polish.
Cleaning Large Pieces of Jewelry
The best thing for cleaning large pieces of open-backed jewelry, such as a brooch, is conservator's liquid soap and warm water. The solution should contain one part soap to ten parts water. You will also want to add few drops of ammonia. Remove the dirt on the piece with an old toothbrush, then rinse the piece in clean warm water. Dry the piece with a soft cotton cloth.
Cleaning Ormolu
When an ornate clock, candelabrum, or other piece made from ormolu (gilded cast brass or bronze) needs to be cleaned, it must be done with great care. For light soiling, remove dust from the item, then clean and protect the surface with an application of microcrystalline wax. For heavier soiling, try removing old wax buildup by using white spirit applied with cotton swabs. Follow that application by using a arm solution of conservator's liquid soap (1 part soap to 10 parts water, to which a few drops of ammonia have been added. Apply that solution with cotton swabs, then wipe with swabs that have been dampened with clean water. Dry the item thoroughtly and buff with a soft cloth. It is best to apply a protective coating of microcrystalline wax following the cleaning. This will help keep the item in pristine condition.
Cleaning Silver Turned Black By Use
Silver that has turned black through use can be cleaned with lukewarm soapy water or with powder detergent added to very hot water. After thoroughly rinsing, the brilliance can be restored by a vigorous polishing with a chamois cloth.
Cleaning a White Ring From Wood
To clean a white ring, caused by moisture from the bottom of a glass, bottle, flower vase, or other article that was set directly on a piece of wood furniture, let the mark dry thoroughly. When it is dry, rub the ring with turpentine--letting it soak in. Apply fresh polish when the ring disappears.
This does not always work on light furniture. If it doesn't work, you can try rubbing some butter (not margarine) over the area.
Detecting Hairline Cracks on Porcelain
It is difficult to detect hairline cracks on porcelain unless the cracks has become dirty. However, hairline cracks can sometimes be detected by holding the piece up to the light. You can also put the piece in the palm of your hand and tap it gently with your fingernail. The porcelain will "ring" if there are no cracks.
Determining the Quality of Gold
The quality of gold in an item is represented by its karat (carat) value, which is the proportion by weight of pure gold to the alloyed metals. Pure gold is 24 karat. In North America, karat is spelled with a "k" rather than a "c" which is used in European nations. The use of the "k" helps to identify items made in North America.
Difference in Crystal and Glass
The compositions of crystal and glass are different in that crystal contains lead and glass contains barytes. However, because of its compostion crystal is less elastic and much more brittle, making it very susceptible to chips and breakage.
Dusting Books
To keep books in excellent shape, they must be dusted regularly. Dusting the books reduce the risk of dust particles getting in between the pages, which can ultimately destroy the paper. Always check for mildew and harmful insects when you dust your books as well. To dust a book, hold it tightly between your forefinger and thumb. Use a soft-bristle paintbrush to dust the "head," brushing from the spine out.
Electrochemical Dip for Cleaning Tarnished Metal
Chemical dips soften and/or remove tarnish from silver, copper and brass by an electrochemical process. To make your own dip for cleaning large metal objects, line a plastic tub or bucket with aluminum foil. It is best to tie a small piece of string to the object, as you will use that string to lift the piece out of the dip to monitor its progress. Place the object into the foil-lined plastic container. Make up a solution of 1 cup of washing soda (sodium carbonate) and 3 1/2 pints of VERY HOT water. You will need to make enough solution to totally cover your object. Immediately after the solution is made, pour it carefully into the plastic container. You will notice that a chemical reaction is taking place as the solution will begin to bubble as the tarnish is removed. Lift the piece out frequently to monitor the progress, and when it is clean, remove it from the dip. Wash and dry it immediately, then polish the piece. If the tarnish is really heavy, you might have to repeat this process several times. There are also commercial cleaning plates available that will produce the same electrolytic reaction. However, cooking salt (rather than the sodium carbonate) is used in the hot water. NOTE: DO NOT USE A DIP FOR CLEANING ITEMS THAT ARE COMPOSED OF A MIXTURE OF MATERIALS, INCLUDING THOSE WITH WEIGHTED BASES, SUCH AS CANDLESTICKS.
Electroplated Silver
The process of electroplating silver was introduced in 1820. This process made it easy to produce cheap silverware. The process electrolytically placed a thin film of silver onto pre-formed base metal pieces. Electroplated nickel silver is often used for cutlery and other tableware items. Also used are alloys of nickel, copper and zinc (often referred to as "German Silver"), as well as an alloy of tin and antimony (referred to as Britannia metal.
Evaluating Vintage and Antique Jewelry
One way to identify stones is visual, which is holding it up to good light and looking at the stone through a 10 power loop; this is what is called identifying if the stone has areas of zoning. Zoning is a variation in color in different areas of the stone. This variation can indicate whether it is a natural gem or a pretty piece of glass. Glass will be clear and have an even color; it might possibly have small bubbles as well. Is the stone "cool?" If so, this also is an indication that it might be the real thing. Faceting of the stone is another clue to look for as a real gem does not have precise faceting as synthetic stones do.
Genuine Amber
Genuine amber is the resin of fossilized conifers--cone-bearing evergreen trees and shrubs. Most of the amber resin used to produce very old stutues and other items was harvested from the Baltic Sea area. Light amber is the color of honey; dark amber is reddish brown, similar to a caramel color. When rubbed briskly with a wool cloth, true amber has a static response and will attract dust or other particles. True amber will also have a pine resin smell. Be aware that fake amber statues exist, and are still being made from synthetic resins and plastics.
Genuine Antique Copper Items
A genuine antique copper item can often be authenticated by its lack of uniformity in thickness. This diversity in thickness occurred because of the hammering and the heating processes the item went through as it was being created. Also keep in mind that antique copper urns and ewers could not be made in one piece. The pieces were soldered together, and those soldered joints are clearly visible on the old pieces.
Modern copper pieces are made from sheet copper, produced by a rolling mill. This makes the items produced from these sheets uniform in thickness, including their base. Regular hammer marks are also indicative of a modern piece. Modern copperware is also perceptibly lighter than old copper pieces.
Identifying English Silver
English silver is easy to identify because of a system of marking that was introduced in the 13th century. This system of marking includes a series of marks that provide the details of the assay office, the quality, the date the item was made and the maker. These marks may also be accompanied by a number that indicates the parts of silver per thousand. Continental Europe and North America did not adopt these formal regulations, though town and maker's marks were generally used and help to identify items made in those areas. Be aware that silver marks on an item are not always clear and/or genuine, so careful analysis and use of reference books is advisable.
Imitation Bronze
In the early 1900s, imitation bronze was used for many ornamental items, such as mantelpieces. Imitation bronze consisted mainly of tin, mixed with very small quantities of copper, antimony (stibnite) and lead. This combination of metals was much less expensive than real bronze, but had much the same coloring.
Is My Amber Real?
One simple test to determine whether the item you have is real amber or not is the static electricity test. Simply rub the piece of amber briskly for about 30 seconds, then hold a piece of tissue next to it. If it draws the tissue to it, there is a good possibility that it is authentic amber. Another test is to use a hot pin to touch the piece in an inconspicuous place. It it gives off a smell of pine, it could also be authentic amber. Neither of these tests are definite, but if the piece pasts these two tests, there is a great possibility that it is genuine.
Is My Bronze Piece Real?
Because there are so many bronze forgeries floating around, collectors need to be very careful when purchasing a bronze piece. Keep in mind that bronze forgeries are about 10 percent smaller than original works because of the molds and the refiring of the fake.
There are usually two signatures on first edition bronzes; this is the founder's stamp. Though not a guarantee, this second signature is often a good indication that it is an original work.
When purchasing a bronze piece, you should always demand a certificate of authenticity. However, if you are an "amateur" collector, we would suggest that you consult a specialist before making any purchases.
Keeping the Patina on Bronze "Clean"
The patina of a bronze must be respected and never have the look of well-polished copper or brass. However, it can be cleaned wth soapy water and a soft brush. After rinsing, it should be dried in dry air. A hair dryer on low can be used. Then it should be hot waxed with beeswax. When completely cool, remove excess wax with a brush and rub lightly with a wool duster.
Lacquering Metal
You can eliminate the need to regularly polish ornamental copper, brass and silver items by applying a clear lacquer to the metal. This process can preserve the finish in a normal household setting for many years. Both brush-on and spray-on metal lacquers are available. Be sure that you work in a warm, well-ventilated and dust-free room. To prepare the surface for lacquering, you need to polish the piece. However, do not use a long-term cleaners as that can affect the bonding of the lacquer. Wash the piece to remove all traces of the polish and then dry the piece thoroughly. Wearing cotton gloves, wipe the surface of the piece with methylated spirit to remove oily fingermarks. Using a soft, fine brush, apply the lacquer quickly and evenly. Two thin coats of the lacquer are preferable, as there is a tendency for a heavy coating to puddle in molded areas. Turn the piece as you apply the lacquer, working in a systematic way to ensure that all areas receive the first coat. Let the lacquer harden overnight before applying the second coat. If you use spray lacquer, be sure to follow the manufacturer's directions carefully. Also be very careful to apply the spray evenly.
Lead Cast Toys
Antique toys made of lead or tinplate - or later, die-cast zinc - have become highly collectible. By the mid-19th Century, lead, because it is a very soft heavy metal that has very good casting properties, was often used to make toys. Manufacturers quickly discovered that there was a great demand for representational toys, such as soldiers, animals, boats, trains and automobiles. When first cast, lead has a bright silver color. However, this soon oxidizes and takes on a light grey patina. The soft nature of lead makes it difficult for a toy to remain in perfect shape. Quite often parts are bent or broken and the paint chips away. It is not advisable to try to straighten bent parts since there is always the chance of breaking the weakened area. The value of lead soldiers and other lead toys is reduced considerably if the items are repainted.
Long-term Exposure to Sunlight Will Destroy Paper Collectibles
Long-term exposure to ultraviolet light (sunlight) is harmful to paper items, causing the colors to fade and eventually causing the paper to disintegrate.
Niello Silverware
Niello is a type of silverware that is decorated with engraved designs. These designs are then filled with a black compound. Special care is necessary when cleaning niello as the piece will be damaged if the compound is removed. Never us a dip to clean niello. Lightly clean the surface of the piece with a long-term silver polish. This enhances the decorative design, making it stand out more on the piece.
Ormolu
Ornate, gold-colored pieces - such as candlelabras, clock cases, and fancy metal mounts on the corners of furniture, are likely to be made from gilded cast brass or bronze, known as ormolu. "Ormolu" is French, meaning ground gold. True ormolu has a thin coat of gold over the base metal. However, some examples of ormolu are also simply a fine-polished lacquered brass, or gilded spelter. Ormolu should not be polished because it is easy to remove the surface gilding. Wear on the high points of moldings is acceptable on antique pieces and should not be retouched. If ormolu becomes corroded, it is best to have it professionally restored.
Paris Bronze
"Paris Bronze" is not really bronze at all. It is actually brass with a little lead in it. It is a blend of 88 percent copper, 10 percent zinc and 2 percent lead. Paris bronze is a pinkish gold color, and its excellent working qualkities make it wonderful to use to make jewelry, ornaments, souvenirs and other similar items.
Pewter Articles Prior to the 18th Century
Really old articles of pewter, prior to the 18th century, are very rare, even though there is evidence that articles made from pewter did exist, even at 1450 B.C. However, items of worn out pewter were often melted down and remade into other vessels by traveling pewterers who went from house to house, doing this for a modest charge.
Polishing Silver
When polishing silver, choose a product that is chemically formulated to give long-term protection to the piece or pieces you are going to clean and polish. This is because each time a piece of silver is polished, it loses some of its silver. Thus, do not polish your silver any more often than is absolutely necessary. Apply the polish according the directions on the bottle, using a soft cloth and working in a circular motion. As the cloth becomes dirty, turn it to a clean area. To clean decorative work on the silver piece, use a soft brush or cotton swabs. After you have cleaned and polished each piece, wash the polished metal to remove all traces of the cleaner. Dry the piece, then buff it once again with a clean, soft cloth.
Protecting & Repairing Steel & Iron Collectibles
Items made from steel, as well as those made from iron, will rust when exposed to damp conditions. To protect your steel and iron collectibles, keep them away from areas that are highly humid and from areas of dampness. It is possible to clean and stabilize rusting metal, but if the piece has been severely damaged from rust, it can usually only be disguised by filling and painting. This "disguise" will normally decrease the value of the piece.
Removing Blood Stains from Wood
Blood stains on wood can usually be removed by using hydrogen peroxide. Pour the hydrogen peroxide on the blood stain and let it set for a few minutes. Wipe off with dry cloth. This may take more than one application. When the stain is gone, use polish on the wood where it was cleaned.
Removing Dust from Crystal Items
Removing dust from crystal items is best done by washing them with warm water directly under the tap, not by dipping them in warm water in a sink.
If you plan to place them on a drain board to allow the water to drain off, the drain board should be covered with a cloth or sheet of foam rubber to keep from chipping the rims of the glasses or other pieces of crystal being cleaned.
Crystal should be dried quickly to keep them from water spotting.
Removing Lacquer from Metal Objects
Worn or missing lacquer creates a patchy appearance on metal objects. However, before the metal can be polished once again, the old lacquer must be removed. If shellac has been used, remove it with cotton swabs that have been dipped in methylated spirit. Use acetone to remove cellulose lacquers. If those fail to remove the lacquer, use paint stripper. When cleaning the lacquer from an item that is made from multiple metals, be sure you apply solvents to the appropriate surfaces only. It is always best to clean a small area at a time. After the lacquer is off, wash the surface with mild soapy water and dry it thoroughly. Once dry, the piece is ready to polish once again. Keep in mind that to keep from having to polish the piece on a regular basis - which tends to remove part of the silver, etc. with each polishing - you might want to reapply lacquer once the piece has been polished.
Risk Factors to Collectible Paper Items
Fire is, of course, the greatest risk factor for items made of paper. However, the second greatest risk is dampness and high humidy. Heat is also harmful, as the paper will become brittle. A dry, relatively cool environment is best for storing all paper items.
Sheffield Plate Silver
Invented in 1742, Sheffield plate is a thin rolled-sheet material, consisting of silver fused to a copper backing. Plating can be fused to either one or both sides of a piece. Sheffield plate was used like solid silver, and was often the material of choice for domestic silverware. Nineteenth-century sheffield plate items may have marks, but most sheffield plate items are unmarked.
Shellac Objects
Shellac, sometimes spelled shellack, is produced by refining lac. Lac is a resinous substance that is secreted by various scale insects. When melted, strained and rehardened (refined), it becomes shellac. Shellac has most commonly been used as a finish for fine furniture. However, shellac was also mixed with organic fillers - including wood flour and powdered minerals - and made into a moldable plastic. The material was capable of being molded with fine detail. Though it was used to make decorative boxes and picture frames, its most common use was to make old 78 rpm records. When shellac records were replaced by vinyl, some of the old records were softened in hot water and used for making decorative bowls and/or pots. Shellac plastic is very brittle and will distort if subjected to excessive heat. Melted shellac smells like sealing wax. To clean shellac plastics, remove the surface dust with a soft brush. Then wipe the item with a soft cloth that has been dampened with a warm, mild liquid soap solution.
Silver Gilt
Silver gilt is silver that has been electroplated with a thin covering of gold. This is often used for plating hoilloware, jewelry and decorative items.
Spelter
An alloy of zinc and lead, spelte was used in the mid-19th Century as a cheap substitute for cast-bronze statues and ornamental objects. Spelter was either patinated to look like bronze, or it was decoratively painted or gilded. To check whether a bronze-colored casting is made from spelter, make a very small scratch on the underside. If the exposed metal appears silvery, then the casting was not genuine bronze. Spelter should be cleaned and maintained the same way as bronze.
Storing Jewelry
Storing jewelry properly, whether it is worn often or needs to be stored for a long-term, is very important for maintaining its beauty. For jewelry that is worn regularly, it is best to keep the items in a cloth-lined, multiple compartment case, or in individually padded boxes. Keeping the jewelry separated and in padded or cloth-lined cases ensures that the soft metal will not easily get scratched or dented. Hanging necklaces on hooks helps to keep them from becoming entangled. Keeping bracelets in separate compartments also helps keep them from becoming entangled. To store jewelry long-term, wrap each piece in acid-free tissue. Rolling the chains in tissue will make them easier to handle, as well as keeping them from harm. Store the jewelry in a stable environment, away from excessive heat.
Storing Silver Pieces
To store silver, wrap each piece individually in acid-free tissue. This protects the surface of the piece from abrasion, as well as from atmospheric pollution. To avoid condensation problems, it is best to place the wrapped piece in a ventilated polyethylene bag. Silver should be stored in cool places. Cloth wraps and bags that have been treated with tarnish inhibitor are also available and can be purchased and used to protect your stored silver. When storing silver for a long period of time, make sure you check it regularly to make certain that it has not gotten damp, or become damaged by other means.
Sulphur in Foods Turns Silver Black
For those who enjoy using silver pieces to serve food at special luncheons or elegant dinners, keep in mind that the sulphur in eggs and cabbage will turn the silver black.
Using Oak Cabinets to House Metal Collectibles
Oak cabinets should not be used to house metal collectibles. Oak gives off vapors of acetic acid. When these vapors combine with lead in the metal item, they transform the lead into a carbonate, which will ruin your item. The first indication that this is happening is the presence of a greyish dust on the surface of the metal object.
Vulcanite
Vulcanite, which is also known as ebonite, is a hard-rubber material that began to be produced commercially in the mid-19th Century. Vulcanite, which was typically black, was molded into a variety of smaller objects, which included buttons, combs, jewelry and fountain pens. Unknown to many, however, vulcanite was also produced in a pink color, which was used for making dentures. Other colors that came into existance were brown and a striated mixture of black and red. Vulcanite is susceptible to light and heat. These two elements cause the surface of vulcanite objects to oxidize, taking on a dull greenish-brown hue. When vulcanite degrades, sulphuric acid is released. If you handle the item, you will notice that your hands have a sulphorous smell. If the item becomes wet after it has oxidized, "water spot" marks will appear. Items made from vulcanite should be handled as little as possible. Always keep hard-rubber item in low light and in cool, dry places. The surface can be cleaned with a cloth that has been dampened with a light mineral oil, then buffed with a clean soft cloth. A thin covering of microcrystalline wax can also be applied.
What is Copper?
Copper is a reddish-colored uncompounded metal that has high ductility and is one of the very best conductors of heat and electricity.
Copper has played a significant part in the history of mankind, which has used the easily accessible metal for nearly 10,000 years. During the Roman Empire, copper was principally mined on Cyprus. A number of countries, such as Chile and the United States, still have sizeable reserves of the metal which are extracted through large open mines.
Numerous copper alloys exist, including bronze (which is a mixture of copper and tin) and brass (which is a mixture of copper and zinc),
What is Gild?
To gild an item means to cover it with a thin layer of gold or a substance that looks like gold. Metals used on genuine antique furniture was often gilded to enhance the beauty of the piece.
What is Lead Crystal
Englishman George Ravenscroft discovered crystal in 1676. Crystal is quartz that is transparent or nearly so, and is either colorless or only slightly tinged. Lead crystal is so named because lead has been added to the quartz mineral. Lead crystal is much stronger than regular glass because it contains lead and glass contains barytes. The presence of lead makes the glass softer and easier to cut. The lead also makes the glass sparkle. Crystal can consist of up to 33% lead, at which point it has the most sparkle. Because of its composition, however, crystal is less elastic and more brittle than glass, making it more susceptible to breakage or chips.
It has been noted in studies done in recent years that storing alcoholic beverages in lead crystal containers is not good. In fact, after two days, lead levels were 89 µg/L (micrograms per liter) in the wine that was being tested. White wine doubled its lead levels within an hour and tripled its lead levels within four hours after being put into a lead crystal container. The EPA's lead standard for drinking water is 15 µg/L (micrograms per liter).
What is glass and when was it created?
Although there is a very detailed definition for glass, it can more simply be defined as a supercooled liquid material that is usually clear or translucent with different colors. It is hard, brittle, and stands up to the effects of wind, rain or sun.
Because of the glass objects that have been found in ancient tombs in southern Egypt and Assyria, it is generally accepted that glass objects were first developed during the bronze age. This would place its creation about 3000 BC. Egyptian glass beads date back to about 2500 BC.
Modern glass originated in Alexandria during the Ptolemaic period. Artisans at that time created "mosaic glass" in which slices of colored glass were used to create decorative patterns.
Blown glass was developed in the 1st century BC by glassmakers in Syria.
A large number of glass factories existed in Rome by 200 AD. In these factories, glass was turned on a lathe and also carved. Everyday Roman glassware consisted of drinking cups, perfume bottles and perfume jars. In the catacombs, objects known as "Christian glassware" have been found. These include items engraved with religious scenes and symbols.
White Metal
The term "white metal" is used in reference to various whitish alloys that contain large amounts of tin, lead or zinc. In the early 1900s many ornamental pieces were made of a white metal that was basically zinc coated with a thin layer of bronze. These pieces polish quite well and appear to look and even handle very much like pewter.
Zamac Bronze
Zamac bronze is not really bronze at all. Zamac is an alloy of zinc and lead that was used for a lot of antique decorative items because it was cheap to make and appeared in various patinas. It was also an alloy that was easy to cast or easy to carve.
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