Tips 'N Tidbits

Caring for Bronzes
Old bronze that are kept indoors develops a highly-prized, rich brown patina, which should always be preserved.  Outside - exterior - bronzes develop a greenish-blue patina.  Neither indoor or outdoor bronzes should be overcleaned, as the cleaning will ruin their color.  Simply dust the surfaces of your interior or exterior bronzes regularly to prevent the build-up of dirt.  To remove dust from crevices, use a small, soft brush.  Never wash bronze unless you are sure it is not patinated spelter (see "spelter"), as you will damage the color.  If you know your piece is entirely bronze, it can be washed with a liquid soap solution (1 part soap to 10 parts warm water).  Apply the soap solution sparingly with cotton swabs.  After washing, dry the piece thoroughly.  If the surface of your bronze has become dull, it can be revived by applying a coat of microcrystalline wax with a soft cloth.  After the wax has been applied, use a clean soft cloth to buff the piece.  Keep indoor bronzes away from damp conditions to prevent them from corroding.

Caring for Pewter
Generally, old pewter has a dark grey patina that needs very little attention.  If it contains a high portion of lead, the color will be quite a bit darker.  Pewter must be handled carefully since it is a soft metal that can easily be scratched or dented.  You should not use coarse abrasives on old pewter because they will damage the patina.  To maintain the condition of pewter, remove the dust and buff the item occasionally with a soft cloth.  You can also wash soiled wares in warm water and liquid soap (1 part soap to 10 parts water).  After washing, rinse the piece completed and dry it with a soft cloth.  To store pewter, make sure you don't put it into an oak cupboard or other storage cupboards that might contain organic acids.  Also, do not store it in boxes that contain a high percentage of glue.  The best way to store pewter is to wrap each piece in acid-free tissue and place them in ventilated plastic bags.  Corrosion on old pewter may cause small lumps to appear.  If the condition is not stable, you should have the item treated by a specialist.

Casein
Casein is produced from the protein found in cow's milk.  Early in the 19th Century, it was discovered that casein, when treated with formaldehyde (a pungent gas), formed a moderately water-resistant, translucent, rigid and hard (thermosetting) plastic.  Casein was produced in a wide range of colors, and it was also used to imitate natural materials, such as tortoiseshell and horn.  Most items made from casin are not molded.  Rather they are made from solid sections of casein.  Most common uses of case was fountain pens, belt buckles, hand brushes and hand mirrors.  Some very decorative buttons were also made from casein.  Fine crazing on the surface of casein objects might develop.  This is because casein will absorb moisture and also dry out.  It is best to keep items made from this material out of the direct sunlight.  Clean with cotton swabs dipped in a mild, liquid soap solution.  Then blot the piece dry with an absorbent tissue. Test a small area of the piece to see if the colors are "fast."  You can seal these pieces with a fine film of microcrystalline wax.

Cleaning Ormolu
When an ornate clock, candelabrum, or other piece made from ormolu (gilded cast brass or bronze) needs to be cleaned, it must be done with great care.  For light soiling, remove dust from the item, then clean and protect the surface with an application of microcrystalline wax.  For heavier soiling, try removing old wax buildup by using white spirit applied with cotton swabs.  Follow that application by using a arm solution of conservator's liquid soap (1 part soap to 10 parts water, to which a few drops of ammonia have been added.  Apply that solution with cotton swabs, then wipe with swabs that have been dampened with clean water.  Dry the item thoroughtly and buff with a soft cloth.  It is best to apply a protective coating of microcrystalline wax following the cleaning.  This will help keep the item in pristine condition.

Dusting Books
To keep books in excellent shape, they must be dusted regularly.  Dusting the books reduce the risk of dust particles getting in between the pages, which can ultimately destroy the paper.  Always check for mildew and harmful insects when you dust your books as well.  To dust a book, hold it tightly between your forefinger and thumb.  Use a soft-bristle paintbrush to dust the "head," brushing from the spine out.

Lacquering Metal
You can eliminate the need to regularly polish ornamental copper, brass and silver items by applying a clear lacquer to the metal.  This process can preserve the finish in a normal household setting for many years.  Both brush-on and spray-on metal lacquers are available.  Be sure that you work in a warm, well-ventilated and dust-free room.  To prepare the surface for lacquering, you need to polish the piece.  However, do not use a long-term cleaners as that can affect the bonding of the lacquer.  Wash the piece to remove all traces of the polish and then dry the piece thoroughly.  Wearing cotton gloves, wipe the surface of the piece with methylated spirit to remove oily fingermarks.  Using a soft, fine brush, apply the lacquer quickly and evenly.  Two thin coats of the lacquer are preferable, as there is a tendency for a heavy coating to puddle in molded areas.  Turn the piece as you apply the lacquer, working in a systematic way to ensure that all areas receive the first coat.  Let the lacquer harden overnight before applying the second coat.  If you use spray lacquer, be sure to follow the manufacturer's directions carefully.  Also be very careful to apply the spray evenly.

Protecting & Repairing Steel & Iron Collectibles
Items made from steel, as well as those made from iron, will rust when exposed to damp conditions.  To protect your steel and iron collectibles, keep them away from areas that are highly humid and from areas of dampness.  It is possible to clean and stabilize rusting metal, but if the piece has been severely damaged from rust, it can usually only be disguised by filling and painting.  This "disguise" will normally decrease the value of the piece.

Risk Factors to Collectible Paper Items
Fire is, of course, the greatest risk factor for items made of paper.  However, the second greatest risk is dampness and high humidy.  Heat is also harmful, as the paper will become brittle.  A dry, relatively cool environment is best for storing all paper items.

Storing Jewelry
Storing jewelry properly, whether it is worn often or needs to be stored for a long-term, is very important for maintaining its beauty.  For jewelry that is worn regularly, it is best to keep the items in a cloth-lined, multiple compartment case, or in individually padded boxes.  Keeping the jewelry separated and in padded or cloth-lined cases ensures that the soft metal will not easily get scratched or dented.  Hanging necklaces on hooks helps to keep them from becoming entangled.  Keeping bracelets in separate compartments also helps keep them from becoming entangled.  To store jewelry long-term, wrap each piece in acid-free tissue.  Rolling the chains in tissue will make them easier to handle, as well as keeping them from harm.  Store the jewelry in a stable environment, away from excessive heat.

Vulcanite
Vulcanite, which is also known as ebonite, is a hard-rubber material that began to be produced commercially in the mid-19th Century.  Vulcanite, which was typically black, was molded into a variety of smaller objects, which included buttons, combs, jewelry and fountain pens.  Unknown to many, however, vulcanite was also produced in a pink color, which was used for making dentures.  Other colors that came into existance were brown and a striated mixture of black and red. Vulcanite is susceptible to light and heat.  These two elements cause the surface of vulcanite objects to oxidize, taking on a dull greenish-brown hue.  When vulcanite degrades, sulphuric acid is released. If you handle the item, you will notice that your hands have a sulphorous smell.  If the item becomes wet after it has oxidized, "water spot" marks will appear.  Items made from vulcanite should be handled as little as possible.  Always keep hard-rubber item in low light and in cool, dry places.  The surface can be cleaned with a cloth that has been dampened with a light mineral oil, then buffed with a clean soft cloth.  A thin covering of microcrystalline wax can also be applied.