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Tips 'N Tidbits
1800s & Early 1900s Bronze Clocks and Sculptures
In the latter 1800s and early 1900s, a lot of the "bronze" used for clocks, sculptural figurines and hanging lights contained substantial amounts--from 25 to 30 percent--of zinc. This made the metal less expensive to use, although items made with this metal were much more brittle than those made with "pure" bronze. However, antiques made from this metal mixture can usually be found in relatively good condition, despite the brittleness of the material.
Bakelite
Bakelite, which was developed in 1909 in the United States and used to produce a wide range of products, was the first totally synthetic-resin plastic. Formed from phenol - a derivative of tar or benzene - and formaldehyde, it was combined with fillers to make a hard, stable, strong plastic with excellent electrical and heat-resistant properties. In the electric appliance field, it was often used for radio and television cabinets. Most were dark brown in color, although some had a "mottled" effect. Later there was a casting type of this resin produced that was either transluscent, or made in many different colors.
Beware of Pure Copper
Pure copper is poisonous, especially when it comes into contact with organic substances such as fat and oil. Its toxicity makes it essential for the inside of kitchen utensils to be tinned. If the tinned insides begin to wear through to the copper, utensils should not continue to be used for cooking foods.
Bone Glue
Bone glue, which is made from animal bones, was used by cabinetmakers throughout the 19th and much of the 20th century. It is still preferred by those who repair and restore antique furniture. The glue is made by grinding animals bones into powder, then dissolving the powder in water. As the water evaporates the mixture becomes a hard jelly-like substance. Woodworkers today, and especially those who are restoring or repairing antique furniture, prefer bone glue because
- The original bond can be completely dissolved by applying heat, even after many, many years.
- Repairs can be easily made and mistakes easily corrected by warming the piece--thus softening the bond and making it possible to separate the pieces. By using a little water on the glue areas, the pieces can be rejoined quite easily.
- Bone glue beads, in their solid form, have a virtually unlimited shelf life. Even prepared glue solutions that have been dried out for years can usually be brought back to a state of use by warming the solution and adding water.
- Bone glue dries hard and it does not form a "skin" like other glues.
- Because it is an organic product, it is more fitting for use with wood than synthetic glues.
- Bone glue is environmentally friendly and completely safe for those using it.
Bone Glue & Veneer
Most veneer on antique furniture was originally adhered with bone glue--especially if the furniture was made by cabinetmakers in the 19th or early 20th century. This was because of its strength, its long-lasting ability and its ease for "ungluing" the piece if necessary. If your veneer has come apart, the best glue for repairing it is still bone glue. Though not readily available, this glue can still be purchased is most readily available through the internet. Although it is no longer used for industrial production, bone glue is still one of the first choices of those experts who repair and/or restore antique furniture.
Bronze
Bronze is a substance compound (alloy) that is made by combining copper and tin. The ratios of the copper and tin vary greatly--depending on the intended use of the bronze. Most works of art, particularly statues, are made from a combination of 83 percent copper and 17 percent tin. This combination makes them harder and more durable.
Casein
Casein is produced from the protein found in cow's milk. Early in the 19th Century, it was discovered that casein, when treated with formaldehyde (a pungent gas), formed a moderately water-resistant, translucent, rigid and hard (thermosetting) plastic. Casein was produced in a wide range of colors, and it was also used to imitate natural materials, such as tortoiseshell and horn. Most items made from casin are not molded. Rather they are made from solid sections of casein. Most common uses of case was fountain pens, belt buckles, hand brushes and hand mirrors. Some very decorative buttons were also made from casein. Fine crazing on the surface of casein objects might develop. This is because casein will absorb moisture and also dry out. It is best to keep items made from this material out of the direct sunlight. Clean with cotton swabs dipped in a mild, liquid soap solution. Then blot the piece dry with an absorbent tissue. Test a small area of the piece to see if the colors are "fast." You can seal these pieces with a fine film of microcrystalline wax.
Cellulose Nitrate - Celluloid
Cellulose Nitrate, developed in America as celluloid and in Britain as Xylonite, was the first synthetic plasic to be manufactured from natural polymers. It was first developed in the mid-19th Century as collodion, which was used for coating photographic plates and also as a treatment for wounds. This plastic was used to make many different types of domestic items, toys, and also early cinema film. The plastic was made in a large variety of colors. Initially celluloid was produced in America to imitate ivory and tortoiseshell, and when the material is warmed, you can detect a distinct smell of camphor, which was used as a plasticizer while being manufactured. Celluloid is highly flammable and should not be exposed to direct flame. Celluloid should not be kept in a humid environment as that will accelerate its deterioration. Pieces made from celluloid should be placed in a dry and relatively cool area on open shelves or in a ventilated cabinet out of direct sunlight. If you have a decaying piece of celluloid, you should remove it from your collection as it will infect the other pieces close to it. Clean celluloid with a warm, mild liquid soap solution. This solution can be applkied with a soft cloth or cotton swabs. If the item has old wax or greasy deposits on it, you can remove those with paraffin. After washing the item with the soap mixture, dry it with an absorbent paper tissue. You should not apply a surface finish to the cleaned plastic.
Electroplated Silver
The process of electroplating silver was introduced in 1820. This process made it easy to produce cheap silverware. The process electrolytically placed a thin film of silver onto pre-formed base metal pieces. Electroplated nickel silver is often used for cutlery and other tableware items. Also used are alloys of nickel, copper and zinc (often referred to as "German Silver"), as well as an alloy of tin and antimony (referred to as Britannia metal.
Paris Bronze
"Paris Bronze" is not really bronze at all. It is actually brass with a little lead in it. It is a blend of 88 percent copper, 10 percent zinc and 2 percent lead. Paris bronze is a pinkish gold color, and its excellent working qualkities make it wonderful to use to make jewelry, ornaments, souvenirs and other similar items.
Sheffield Plate Silver
Invented in 1742, Sheffield plate is a thin rolled-sheet material, consisting of silver fused to a copper backing. Plating can be fused to either one or both sides of a piece. Sheffield plate was used like solid silver, and was often the material of choice for domestic silverware. Nineteenth-century sheffield plate items may have marks, but most sheffield plate items are unmarked.
Shellac Objects
Shellac, sometimes spelled shellack, is produced by refining lac. Lac is a resinous substance that is secreted by various scale insects. When melted, strained and rehardened (refined), it becomes shellac. Shellac has most commonly been used as a finish for fine furniture. However, shellac was also mixed with organic fillers - including wood flour and powdered minerals - and made into a moldable plastic. The material was capable of being molded with fine detail. Though it was used to make decorative boxes and picture frames, its most common use was to make old 78 rpm records. When shellac records were replaced by vinyl, some of the old records were softened in hot water and used for making decorative bowls and/or pots. Shellac plastic is very brittle and will distort if subjected to excessive heat. Melted shellac smells like sealing wax. To clean shellac plastics, remove the surface dust with a soft brush. Then wipe the item with a soft cloth that has been dampened with a warm, mild liquid soap solution.
Silver Gilt
Silver gilt is silver that has been electroplated with a thin covering of gold. This is often used for plating hoilloware, jewelry and decorative items.
Sulphur in Foods Turns Silver Black
For those who enjoy using silver pieces to serve food at special luncheons or elegant dinners, keep in mind that the sulphur in eggs and cabbage will turn the silver black.
Tinplate
Tinplate is composed of a thin sheet of rolled steel that has been plated on both sides with a thin layer of rust-proofing tin. Tin is a soft, non-toxic metal that is very durable and doesn't corrode easily. As a plating material, it is typically used for food canning in today's market. However, in the mid-19th Century, manufactuers began to tinplate to produce toys.
Vulcanite
Vulcanite, which is also known as ebonite, is a hard-rubber material that began to be produced commercially in the mid-19th Century. Vulcanite, which was typically black, was molded into a variety of smaller objects, which included buttons, combs, jewelry and fountain pens. Unknown to many, however, vulcanite was also produced in a pink color, which was used for making dentures. Other colors that came into existance were brown and a striated mixture of black and red. Vulcanite is susceptible to light and heat. These two elements cause the surface of vulcanite objects to oxidize, taking on a dull greenish-brown hue. When vulcanite degrades, sulphuric acid is released. If you handle the item, you will notice that your hands have a sulphorous smell. If the item becomes wet after it has oxidized, "water spot" marks will appear. Items made from vulcanite should be handled as little as possible. Always keep hard-rubber item in low light and in cool, dry places. The surface can be cleaned with a cloth that has been dampened with a light mineral oil, then buffed with a clean soft cloth. A thin covering of microcrystalline wax can also be applied.
What is Gild?
To gild an item means to cover it with a thin layer of gold or a substance that looks like gold. Metals used on genuine antique furniture was often gilded to enhance the beauty of the piece.
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